January 30, 2013 by Beans Ahoy
Dulsao. An intriguing coffee, not because it’s particularly incredible, but because it’s even sold at all. Despite the push in recent years for retailers to sell higher quality coffee, they are still at the mercy of the consumer, and unfortunately the consumer has come to expect something that tastes like burnt rubber, not an attractive flavour.
This is what makes Dulsao a surprise as it’s a very light coffee. Nespresso rate it at a 4/10 for intensity and despite my slight annoyance with their intensity ratings (due to the insufficient nature of just ranking ‘intensity’) a 4 out of 10 sounds about right. Many people will taste this coffee and think that there is something wrong with it. There isn’t, it is just light, and as such best drunk as an espresso. Any milk will likely kill off any taste.
Brazil has been producing some really rather terrific coffees in recent years, and this yellow and red bourbon is no different, but I wouldn’t say that there is a typical bourbon taste here. That isn’t a problem as it still tastes good, it’s just not what I have been tasting from the bourbons of this region recently. There is a slight lack of structure and complexity to be top bourbon, and the lack of overall ‘bourbon-ness’ is likely due to the blending. It’s good nevertheless.
Overall it’s a good coffee. You won’t go wrong with the Dulsao, you just have to appreciate that you are drinking something a little different and that it would be silly to blend this with any type of milk, or strong flavoured food. Appreciate the subtlety on it’s own. It is also a good addition to the Nespresso line-up, as it represents the lighter side of their spectrum quite well.
Aroma is soft and nutty with a slight hint of cedar. Floral notes, eucalyptus, and sweet wild flowers. The taste is light, so pay attention. There is a fruity bitter bite when cooler. Slightly two dimensional, but not bad because of it, just different. Limited structure to the mouthful, but refreshing. Will work well as a light after dinner coffee. 6.9/10